Archive for August, 2008

Time is the essence in Prague
August 26, 2008

Our arrival into Prague was smooth – from airport, to bus, to metro, to tram, to hostel. Albeit it was 11pm upon our arrival, but we could not have had a smoother transition from London to the charming medieval nature that greeted us in Prague. We easily checked into our hostel room (though we questioned whether it was the correct room, seeing as it was fitted out with a kitchen, two ladders and some leftover hardboard!), and set out to find some dinner. Unfortunately, after only wandering up one street in search of food, Prague was hit with a dramatic downpour – so much so that the downpipes were overflowing, puddles were abundant and the wind was causing water to soak our feet and jeans. Perhaps we weren’t so hungry after all! Beaten by the horrid weather, we headed back to the hostel and hoped to sleep through our hunger….
Prague, by daylight, was “just like medieval lego” (according to Nick). After a 100KR breakfast at the hostel, we wandered from our hostel stoop down to the Old Town. We were stoppedĀ  by a friendly local who strongly recommended catching and train or bus into town as she thought the walk was too far. It didn’t look far on the map. It took us 20 minutes.
The Prague Old Town was quaint, charming and beautiful. It was still early, and the throngs of tourists in for the bank holiday weekend hadn’t ventured out yet allowing us to enjoy the Old Town without having to battle through tour groups of all sizes, kinds and natures. We spent the day in the Old Town area seeking the metronome (a giant metronome, literally), which is decorated by a collection of sneakers on an electrcity wire nearby; and seeing the many preserved churches, medieval buildings, squares and….. clocks!
Prague is covered with clocks. Not just medieval circa 1400 clocks, but clocks of all types. No matter which way you turn, or where abouts you are in Prague, you will never be without the time for somewhere in your view is always a random clock. On a sign, on a building, hanging above a shop, or simple a freestanding clock. I wonder if watch sales are fairly low in Prague….
After a fair amount of wandering to find a suitably fitting Czech menu at a cheap price (no tourist prices!), we found a lovely little tradition Czech place that served up all the essentials: goulash, pork knees, meat, potatoes, sauerkraut, etc and pivo (beer). I had been talking up the Czech food to Nick expressing how much he would enjoy the food – thankfully his first meal did not disappoint. Exceeded all his wild expectations! And gave him a taste of all the coming meals…. though, meat + potatoes + pivo really would sum up your dining experience in the Czech Republic!
Our first night in Prague we headed into the Beer Factory, a recommendation by Matt. A pure novelty factor, it’s a sports bar that has nice food but also allows you to pour your own beer! You serve yourself completely, and you a charged per litre for your beer. Mostly the other patronage in the bar were bucks nights, or mainly foreigners but the novelty factor was enough for it to be a great night! After a few pivos, we decided to eat and though Nick was adamant he could eat a pork knee… I strongly recommended we get one, and then order a few sides (potatoes, salad etc) thanks to my experience in the Krumlov with Rach. Although Nick ripped into the pork tearing it all up, I think by the end of eating all of our pork, potatoes and salad he was thankful for having to share with me! More room for pivo too….
We spend our second day in the Prague New Town. More beautiful than the Old Town (though I loved the Old Town), it also is the home of the Prague Castle. It was slightly overcast on our second day, and disappointing to be rugged up in a jacket and jeans on the last weekend of summer…
The castle was charming, albeit scaffolding on the entry, and it also offered some great views across Prague. My favourite part of the castle was the Golden Lane – a tiny, cobbled lane of shops that sold peculiar and unique things: from musical manuscripts and instruments, to clocks (!), to odds and ends, to little souvenirs. So cute! We also spotted a medieval blacksmith banging up something upon our exit, I think the last time I witnessed a blacksmith was as a 7 year old at Old Sydney Town….
Lunch, again, was a feast. I couldn’t resist the goulash, and being the pride dish of the Czech Republic, Nick also had the same. It was spicier than the goulash I’d had in the Krumlov, but divine. Yummo. Following lunch and pivo, we then sought out the “skinny” street. A street in Prague that is so thin that there is a walk light at either end! Novelty factor, again. As was the fountain of Prague, where the figures in the fountain are peeing… and that’s where the fountain comes from.
The view from the top of St Nicholas’ church was fabulous, and it was whilst up we noticed the clouds started to part. We crossed the Charles Bridge (ugh, tourists jam packed it), and then wandered up to the Dancing Building, a building that the locals call “the Fred & Ginger building”, as it looks like Fred is taking ginger for a bit of a twirl.
For our last night in Prague, we were brave and chose to dine on a Bohemian Feast for two. My goodness was it a lot of food. The waitress told us it was a good choice, and yes it was… but also carb central! And what a lot of cheese…. we couldn’t finish it, but we certainly gave it a good try and left knowing that at least we had attempted a local delicacy!
Our last morning in Prague we ventured back to see the Astronomical Clock turn on the hour, and also to see the John Lennon mural wall. Similar mural to the Berlin wall, but completely of Beatles lyrics and in memory of Lennon after he was assasinated in NY.
Prague was a beautiful city, full of rich history, beautiful buildings and gorging food. And so cheap! I loved the Czech Republic the first time visiting Rach in Cesky Krumlov, and just as much the second time in Prague. A country highly recommended to visit!